Alicia Juanpere offers a lesson in both good food and Spanish culture.

Cooking Up a Spanish Storm

Imagine sitting in the Spanish countryside in front of a meal of chicken with almond saffron sauce, Catalan veal stew, tomato soup with fresh figs, and white chocolate mousse with black olive purée. Now, imagine returning home to this same fantastic meal spread out on your own dining room table. Who made the repast?

Worried about exact measurements? "It doesn't matter!" says Juanpere. "You have to feel what is right."

You.

Sometimes mere photos and postcards just can't capture the incomparable sights and sounds and smells and tastes you experience during a trip to Spain, especially if your vacation has included a stay at Catacurian, the 6-person boutique hotel in El Priorat, an hour's drive from Barcelona (it's an area known for it's spectacular red wines). In the mornings, co-owner and chef Alicia Juanpere gladly plays the role of culinary tour guide, driving guests to nearby wineries (such as Costers del Siurana) or to local cooperatives where grapes and olives are harvested. Or she might invite a local expert to conduct an olive oil tasting at Catacurian.

But Juanpere's afternoon cooking classes in Catacurian's professional kitchen is the highlight of any stay. During the course of a lesson, she might demonstrate how to butterfly a shrimp, make alioli (Spanish mayonnaise), or seer a Crema Catalana, the custard desert akin to crème brûlée. With flamenco playing in the background, students chop, take notes, and flip through Catacurian's recipe book while Juanpere throws ingredients into a simmering paella pan. Students follow Juanpere up to a point, but might hesitantly question her about the exact measurements or ingredient order. Juanpere indubitably replies, "It doesn't matter! You have to feel what is right."

Not heading to the Priorat area? No need for your stomach to growl. We've sniffed out other places throughout Spain where epicureans can learn a little something about some of the most amazing cuisine Europe has to offer.

Mallorca
Mallorca Cooking Holidays' HQ is the gorgeous, 12th-century ranch C'an Torna [http://www.cantorna.com/], located just outside Esporles. Guests can take part in day or week-long cooking classes. Tours of local wineries and marketplaces are offered, but students are equally welcome to simply take in the mountainous view by the side of C'an Torna's pool.

Barcelona
Overlooking Las Ramblas in the heart of Barcelona, Bego Sanchis' Cook & Taste offers traditional Catalan cooking classes, preceded by a trip to the famed La Boqueria market. Sanchis offers insider tips on local events as well as Catalan history.

San Sebastián
Beginning in the Basque city of San Sebastián, A Taste of Spain's popular 8-day culinary tour will have guests cooking, eating, and drinking their way down to the Andalusian city of Cordova.

Posted on June 19, 2006